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A lot of times, this is true. I do think that tubeless technology and sealant technology is improving. But you're right, the best retention is definitely a thicker butyl tube.

I have some in my bike supply cabinet! Thanks for adding that!

I do run sealant. I’ve had one puncture that needed a plug. Been holding for months since then. Had another puncture that sealed up in the rear. I only knew it based on sealant spray otherwise I never would’ve known. I’m satisfied with the RS tires so far.

I’ve been running muc off no punctures. Seems to be decent so far. Only have had one puncture that I had to plug and it’s been holding since. I’ve never run Pathfinders but I have had a LOT of recommendations by viewers on those for durability. By far more than any other tire. Based on that, I would say pathfinders are a good choice if you’re concerned about durability. If you want speed, I think hands down the RS is going to be better.

Factory installed tape, hooked, and yes it was seated. The leakage was through the sidewall. If you watch the video on my channel on the corsa pro control, I actually was able to catch it on camera.

@@JMCyclingVideosThank you good to know. Am riding a giant tcr with hooked rims, always conti 4-5k tubes, but thinking tubeless now for comfort, will likely go conti 5k.

The GP5000 are great tires for sure. I would give the nod to Vittoria when it comes to comfort but they don’t have the leak down issue. Either way, you can’t go wrong.

@@JMCyclingVideosI understand, but like convenience: the possible extra maintenance of the V’s would bug me !:)

Thanks for sharing your experience. I've had numerous Vittoria tires and haven't felt anything like what you're explaining. Maybe you got a bad set? I don't know. Either way that's not a good feeling to have.

Thanks for the feedback from your experience. I will say that I still have not had any issues with reliability on my set (which I got a few years ago, as evidenced by the publish date of this video). I haven't purchased any others, outside of a pirelli smartube which I keep for a spare. I've heard good things about the chinese versions, but with running tubeless pretty much exclusively, I don't have a wide range of experience of various brands.

Top up as needed. I’d check it more often than that just to get an idea of how often it’s needed. Climate has a big effect on the longevity of sealant.

@@JMCyclingVideos will there be a need to clean off the old sealant before topping up the new?

Nope. Just add some and go. It doesn’t specify to do this, but I’ve added a tiny bit of water when topping up just to add back the moisture lost over time. It’s water soluble so adding it back in doesn’t hurt anything.

It is actually a huge difference in comfort between each of the pressures. Even though the highest pressure was technically the fastest by my measure, I would never run that high of pressure for anything longer than maybe an hour. It was that bad. Whereas at the lowest pressure it super comfortable. I would just worry about pinch flats or rim strikes at that low of pressure. It’s really a balance everyone has to experiment to find.

@@JMCyclingVideos are you running tubeless? You can go even lower

I am running tubeless. I know lower is possible, but with the 40mm I’m a little hesitant about striking my nice zipp wheels on a rock. With 45mm+ I’d probably try a little lower

This is the "Gold Burn" color. I get compliments on it everywhere I go. Truly a beautiful bike.

Thanks for the input. Hopefully you at least skipped to the end to see the results.

I haven’t done any experimenting. I know it’s only “officially” rated for 44T but there was a TON of B-gap adjustment left. I really doubt you’d have any issue with 46T. Maybe 48T, but I’d worry about shift quality at that point.

Ummm, thanks? It seemed to go on pretty easily for me, compared to some more difficult combos. I recently moved these tires to my Zipp 303S wheels and they installed super easy as well.

They both have pros and cons. I like the ride feel of the challenge much better. I think speed is probably a wash between the two although drum tests says the RS is faster. Install on the challenge is a nightmare. And the challenge had much worse durability. The RS held up a lot better. If you watched my unbound 2022 video you can see the slices in my tires which forced me to DNF. Admittedly, they were great until Unbound.

@@JMCyclingVideos thx for reply. According to BRR, puncture score on tread for Getaway is actually higher than RS (52 VS 33), sidewall is about the same. I'm between these two tires and couldn't make final decision. RS is slightly faster (1+ watt saving per tire according to BRR), weight about the same, but Getaway is not easy for installation, I watched some videos how to ,make installation earlier, but honestly "easier way" (with some tricks) still not that easy.

Glad it helped you! It’s a small but important measurement, in my opinion. And eye opening to see such a big difference between two versions of the same saddle. That’s definitely enough to throw off seatpost adjustments.

@@JMCyclingVideos I got the same sort of response from Selle Italia as I did from bikesdirect. I am going to try a knockoff now as this really is annoying. Thanks for your comment and keep up the good videos

I think that’s absolutely a good idea. If you run a tube that’s low rolling resistance such as latex or TPU you’re going to be in the same ballpark. Just plan to run slightly higher tire pressures to prevent pinch flats. And if you decide to go tubeless later, you’re ready.

I actually level my even with the front and back. I’ve played around with it a bit and for me, that works best. I’d recommend trying it both ways to see what’s best for you.

@@JMCyclingVideos thanks so much

Excellent comment and something that is often overlooked. Yes, this saddle is grippy and adjustments require a lift off the saddle. To me, that's a positive because I like to be held in when I'm where I want to be, but to some, it may be uncomfortable.

Well, that’s a bummer but at least they took care of you. I haven’t heard an issue with RED so I bet you’ll be OK with it. Good luck!

Thanks for sharing your experience. It’s always good when others share their experience in the comments. I did, later, have one single puncture in my front tire. But I used a plug and it’s been solid since.

Thanks for the input. I definitely have some ideas for changing up the testing protocol, especially for tests like this that are relatively easy to make changes quickly in between tests.

Yes! 100% put lots of carbon paste. And I always had the best luck when I torqued to the maximum spec. Hope it works out well for you!

If you’re going mostly road, definitely 35c. Rolling resistance and aerodynamics will be better. You’ll have to be more cautious off road but 35’s would still tackle all but the chunkiest of gravel. Just my opinion of course.

@@JMCyclingVideos thanks for the quick response, appreciate it! 🙂

Some people like to know how difficult they are to install, how much they weigh (compared to manufacturers claims) and how they measure out once installed. For example, buying a 34mm tire hoping it installs out to 34mm but being disappointed that it only sizes up to 32mm, like I demonstrated here.

I know that would be a good test for airflow, but is there something else I would see while riding?

​@@JMCyclingVideos Yes, wether they get foggy when breathing hard...

Ah that makes sense. I haven’t had much of an issue with fogging in any of my sunglasses, these included. I’ve worn them during some warm humid morning rides and no issues 👍.

@@JMCyclingVideos Good to know. Thank you!

20 internal 26 external.

Sorry they didn’t work out well for you. I’m much smaller at around 65-70kg most of the time so I don’t strain my wheels that much. Plus I don’t do a lot of long descents so I don’t put as much break wear on them.

@@JMCyclingVideos yeah, my first pair got deformed the breaking surface, on the second pair the rear hub is somehow destroyed, tried 4 different mechanics (it pulls the chain of freewheeling).. in addition on each of them i changed many small parts, spokes, bearing mutliple times... my experience with bikes and components: if a price is too good to be true it's probably not good ;).

That last statement is so true. I’m running some Zipp 303S right now so I kind of went the same way!

Coming from the Corsa Pro 26’s (see my past videos on those if you haven’t) honestly I can’t feel much difference in speed. Comfort is on another level though. I’ll have an initial review on these soon.

You know I think you probably could. Downsides I think would just be that it would be messy.

That’s great to hear! I did get one puncture on mine since this video but I’ve patched it up and it’s been going strong since.

That’s tough to say. I’m not sure what the terrain you’re going to be on looks like. If you’re getting into mud or some really chunky gravel, maybe something with some more tread. If it’s road/light gravel and only a few smaller sections of chunky stuff, then the RS should work fine.

Some people say that. I didn’t experience that though. May be because I didn’t have the ultra thin ones for disc brakes. Maybe that’s different? I can’t say for sure.

I did post this quite some time ago. I know they’ve gone down in price since then.

Cheapest as in cheap quality or just cheapest price because you had high end stuff?

@@JMCyclingVideos quality. We always made fun of zipps. Zipp right back to buy better ones we said. It's Chinese carbon fiber and the quality just isn't there. Good starter set. I ride MTB. I've tried enve race face...all of them. I ride wtb rings with hope hubs now.

Good to hear input from someone with a wide range of experience.

All SRAM except cassette.

Are you useing a flattop chain?

Yep flattop. It’s all SRAM AXS except the cassette. Because I didn’t want to swap to an XDR freehub.

Wow 12 months without a top up? Thats fantastic!

@@JMCyclingVideos Yes. The endurance version is unbelievable.

I understand your frustration. Many bikes these days are going to proprietary parts, like seat posts, stems, and handlebars. Since my fit is dialed in, I’m good, but any adjustments would be difficult and expensive with everything integrated.

That does make sense. But I really would’ve thought a 30-40% difference would see a bigger change.

Good question! No, these tires are not direction. That's in contrast to the Vittoria Corsa Pro Control tires which will be featured on the channel soon and ARE directional. Subscribe if you haven't already to be notified when that video comes out.

I appreciate the comment and sub! Keep your eyes open because I’ll have another Vittoria tire video soon.

Thanks for the insight. Makes sense. I still prefer my simpler tools though. But glad to know there’s a purpose for it.

That’s really what I was looking for. It is definitely not a lightweight but it feels really solid.

@@JMCyclingVideos what do you consider lightweight? I’m building up a gravel bike right now and would be thrilled if it came in under 20 pounds. I know I could save some serious weight if I wasn’t hell bent on having a dropper post, but the heart wants what the heart wants…

I have some weight weenie tendencies so I’d be thrilled with under 8kg. Unless I got some super light wheels/tires and maybe a lightweight integrated cockpit I don’t think it’s in the cards for this build. But I’m trying to fight the urge because I know it doesn’t make near as much difference as people once thought.

“Weight is just a number in the scale” - that is what the more rational voice in my head keeps telling me 😅 For the records, my Ti road/gravel 2x bike is also 8.5kg with road tires, so maybe you will find a way to get yours sub-8 😊

I'm trying! Keep an eye on the channel and you might see some of the steps I take to lighten it up!

Try using the cleats that came with the Look pedals. I bet that will help.

Nope. Basso bikes are made in Italy 🇮🇹. One of the reasons I chose it.

@@JMCyclingVideos certainly Basso has copied the frame characteristics of the big 5 bike companies.. frame looks like a canyon. Credit for keeping production in Italy. Basso has always been quality company…

I’m 100% sure there’s a lot of carry over on frame characteristics from all of the companies. But each have their own unique features (in most cases at least). I just like to be different and we don’t see too many Basso’s around my area.

Glad you’re enjoying yours! Mine has so far been great on fast road rides and gravel rides. I’ll be doing more videos featuring the Palta so subscribe if you haven’t yet!

I agree. I have checked in on them since the initial install and the head has recessed a bit into the liner just over time. I think it’s ok to carve a spot through to seat the head of the zip tie. Shouldn’t have any impact on the structure of the foam liner.

My riddlers weren’t tubeless compatible so I ran them at around 55psi with tubes. When I run any gravel tires tubeless, it’s usually in the 30-35psi range. Don’t fear going low on pressure. I did a video recently about tire pressures and there wasn’t a whole lot of difference other than comfort. Check it out if you’re interested.

@@JMCyclingVideos thanks for the reply. I've just watched your video about the experiment with three rides with different pressure values. Quite an interesting video, but the thing is that I run my riddlers at a way higher pressure. I inflate them to 75 psi. And in this case they really make a great difference on asphalt. Also, I found out that the manufacturer declares that their pressure must be 55 psi maximum, but the tire itself has it written on its sidewall: "maximum pressure 75 psi". So, long story short, I feel like the formula in my case could be: tubed wtb riddlers. With high pressure for commuting, and with lower one - when riding off-road. Thus, I gain benefits of easy mounting in case of punctures. And of enormous speed when riding on the road. I just can't believe that there is any tubeless tire that can be as fast as a tubed wtb riddler at 75 psi. If there's anyone who can prove me wrong - please do so.

Whatever works best for you is the what you should do. Higher pressure will for sure be faster on smooth payment. Give the Zipp or Silca tire pressure calculator and see what they recommend then adjust from there.

I average 4-5000 miles per year. Not all of those miles go on one bike or one set of tires.

@@JMCyclingVideos well alrright, that doesn't change the fact that 1000-1500 miles is nothing and shouldn't be called "long term" especially when you run any modern tyre, they should last minimum 2x/3x as much without any worries.

I understand your mindset but there are also a lot of people out there who still run certain wheels and tires for race only. And for those, 1500 miles is more than they’ll see on a set

Different people different need and miles per month 😂 I commute on them someone race on them. 1k my monthly number😂 Thanks for video 👍🏻 very informative

So true! Thanks for watching.

A little more than 50% of retail. I went with 2x because it’s going to be more versatile for road and gravel. I run a 48x35 up front and a 10-33 on road and 10-36 on gravel. If you watch my 2024 3T Exploro bike update, I go more into the details there, which is why I didn’t do a long detailed video this time on the same build with a different frame.

Wow glad you were able to find this color way. I think it’s pretty rare. Rim brake or disc? As for the cages, they’re Blackburn Camber in matte black and orange. I’m honestly not sure where to find them.

@JMCyclingVideos same colour as yours. I'm buying it used for 1 grand, but no wheels and no groupset to save some money, since I already own a dura ace r9000. Do you recommend this frame? Please tell me as much as you can about it

I love my Wilier. I’m not using it currently because I’m using my gravel bike currently for everything, but the Wilier is a rapid race bike. Lightweight for being an aero bike and stiff. I used mine only with electronic shifting though so I can’t comment on cable routing for mechanical shifting.